After our Sefofane pilots landed successfully on the eroding tarmac at Mansa airport, we taxied to the waiting UNICEF van. It drove onto the tarmac to meet us. Mansa is building a small terminal building to accompany the airstrip and the workers had all paused to watch us come in. We were probably the most action they’d seen in a while.
The van barreled down the road to town, honking periodically at the constant stream of pedestrians passing on both sides. Mansa is the provincial capital of Luapula, a town of about 250,000 people, abutting the main thoroughfare at the edges and clustering into a low-slung administrative center for the province. It is also an independent district, one of nine in the province. In terms of service delivery, it is probably the most effective of the districts. The population is young – nearly half under the age of 14, with a growth rate of around 3.3% per annum. The main economy seems to be agriculture, fishing and limited service provision; most locals practice subsistence farming.
We checked in at the Mansa Hotel, a formerly three-star establishment that seems to have been downgraded with the swipe of a whiteout pen. It was once government owned, and apparently quite swish in its heyday. It has been privatized, and seems to have suffered from graceful decay in the meanwhile. Fans were indolent, water intermittent, and internet nonexistent, but the staff is enthusiastic and polite, and the rooms spotless. As an added benefit, the setting itself was lovely - the grounds were immaculate, the flowers lush, and the breezes cool. As a place to sleep, it acquitted itself admirably.
After an afternoon of meetings (details to come) we explored the city of Mansa. We stopped at the local grocery store, Shoprite, a warehouse of a store stocking everything from broccoli florettes to Red Bull to wine glasses. We wandered around agog at the options. In Lusaka, the experience of a finely stocked Spar grocery market was impressive, but understandable. In Mansa, it was a bit surprising. Whether it was affordable for the majority of the population was another question altogether, but business that night seemed brisk.
When we develop, we try to stay as close to the end users as possible. We might be looking at 3-5 weeks in Mansa. That doesn't seem like such a bad thing.
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